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Blown-in insulation works, but only for unfinished attics. Also, it isn’t the longest-lasting nor the most effective option. For better options, look into spray foam insulation or natural fiber batts. They typically have a longer lifespan, better heat resistance, and stronger sound-proof abilities. Spray foam insulation costs about $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot, but can go up to more than $4 per square foot. Fiber batt pricing varies depending on the material.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

In addition to adding insulation to your attic, you may want to add a radiant barrier. A radiant barrier works by using reflective material, such as foil, on the attic floor. As heat penetrates the roof and enters the attic, the radiant barrier reflects the heat upward and back through the roof. If you receive a lot of direct sunlight on the roof, using both a radiant barrier and insulation in your attic can provide significant benefits.

If you plan on heating your garage, you must install a vapor barrier when drywalling the garage. A vapor barrier protects your garage from frost and mold that can occur through condensation. If your garage is unheated, you don't need to install a vapor barrier. The only exception is if you regularly crank the heat in your car before getting in it. In this case, you may still want to install a vapor barrier, as your car can heat your garage.