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Plaster ceilings can sag for several reasons. In some cases, the plaster and other building materials shift and come apart over time, which is why you’ll commonly find drooping plaster ceilings in older homes. Improper installation, foot traffic, and water damage—often from a leaky roof or a broken pipe—can also cause plaster ceilings to sag.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.

Yes, walls on the top floor can be load-bearing if stacked on the floor’s foundation.