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Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

On average, insulating an attic costs about $2,500, with a typical range of $1,500 to $3,500. The final price often depends on the attic's size, with costs generally falling between $1 to $3 per square foot. For example, insulating a 1,800-square-foot attic would likely cost between $1,800 and $5,400.

If the project involves removing old insulation, this can add an average of $900 to the total cost, bringing a full removal and reinsulation project to around $3,000.

Several factors influence the overall cost:

• Insulation Type: Prices per square foot vary significantly by material.

• Reflective: $0.50–$1.50

• Blown-in: $1–$4

• Batt: $2–$4

• Loose-fill: $2–$5

• Spray foam: $2–$5

• Structural insulated panels (SIPs): $4–$7

• Project Complexity: Factors like sealing air leaks, poor attic accessibility, and required inspections can add to the cost.

• Removal Issues: The discovery of mold, asbestos, or pests during the removal of old insulation can substantially increase the price.

It's essential to use insulation materials specifically designed for air ducts. Common types of duct insulation materials include fiberglass, foam board, and reflective foil. These insulation materials have the right properties to withstand the temperature and airflow conditions within the ductwork. Using the appropriate insulation not only ensures efficient temperature control but also prevents potential safety hazards or the release of harmful particles into the air.

It’s best not to install a radiant barrier directly under insulation because it requires an air gap on at least one side to work properly. Instead, you should install the radiant barrier over your existing insulation to create an air space to reflect the radiant heat.