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Mound systems can fail if foreign objects are flushed into the septic tank, the septic tank is backed up with solid waste (sludge), if wastewater floods or seeps from the mound, or if any part of the system is clogged. To prevent this, only flush toilet paper and your normal “business” down toilets, and get a septic inspection at least yearly.

Concrete septic tank risers are heavier and more durable than plastic or fiberglass ones, making them suitable for long-term use. Installing a concrete riser differs from installing plastic or fiberglass risers primarily in the materials and methods used. The process involves cutting the concrete risers to the required length and then stacking them, using concrete sealant or adhesive between sections for secure attachment. Due to their weight, extra care is necessary during leveling and the attachment of sections. Concrete sealant or adhesive may also require a curing before the riser is ready for use.

Most well pump pressure switches have a factory setting of 30 to 50 PSI. There’s some flexibility with this if you’d like a lower or higher water pressure, but remember that it should sit 2 to 3 PSI above your well tank’s general pressure setting.

The inside of your pressure switch cover will usually indicate minimum and maximum settings—going below and above the numbers might damage your well pump.

How to size a well pressure tank is determined by three factors: flow rate, or how many gallons per minute your well pump produces; minimum runtime; and pressure switch setting. Most pressure tanks have a pressure switch operating at 20/40, 30/50, and 40/60—the first number is the pressure needed for the pump to turn on, and the second number is the pressure needed for the pump to switch off. Most homeowners relying on well water require a water pressure tank ranging from 20 to 80 gallons.