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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

To adhere pavers to concrete, you can use either mortar or a concrete-specific adhesive. For border pavers, a polyurethane-based adhesive is a good choice as it expands and contracts with temperature changes, keeping them firmly in place. For the non-border pavers, polymeric sand is used between the joints to prevent shifting. In most cases, it is also recommended to lay a permeable sand layer below the pavers to ensure proper stability and drainage. Before starting, always take the proper preparatory steps for a professional result.

Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

While it may be less expensive initially to lay concrete vs. pavers, the long-term expenses that come with repairing concrete may prove to be less cost-friendly than simply replacing a few damaged pavers. On top of that, stamped concrete may only last for 25 years compared to pavers, which can last over 50 years.