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There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

Decomposed granite and caliche can both harden into a solid surface using a plate compactor. However, due to decomposed granite’s fine particles, it’s not suitable for driveway surfaces. Some homeowners use pea gravel mixed with a gravel-binding resin to bind the loose stones and create a solid surface that won’t shift like loose gravel.

A driveway approach is the part of a driveway where the public road meets the private driveway. This section contains several key elements, including the driveway apron, the curb cut, and the end slope. Depending on the slope of the driveway, this area may also contain the trench drain.