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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

If pavers are uneven but not sunken, lift the affected bricks and check the bedding sand underneath. In many cases, simply smoothing out or adjusting the sand is enough to level them. Add or remove small amounts as needed, then press the pavers back into place and tap them with a mallet until they sit evenly with the surrounding surface.

The recommended minimum amount for a paver base is 4 inches. From there, it depends on the kind of traffic the pavers will see and the current soil conditions. Two inches of paver base won’t create the amount of stability and support that pavers need to remain securely in place over time.

The most common alternatives to a gravel driveway are concrete, asphalt, brick, and permeable pavers. Concrete and asphalt are the two more affordable alternatives, while the intricate design options of brick and permeable pavers make installation significantly more expensive. Similar to gravel, concrete isn’t the best driveway material for cold weather, as frigid temperatures can cause it to crack. Alternatively, asphalt is sensitive to heat, and driveways can become soft in areas with high temperatures and sun exposure. While brick and permeable pavers give homeowners curb appeal, the latter offers the added functionality of preventing flooding and reducing runoff water.