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After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.

An asphalt driveway should be at least 3 inches thick over a compacted gravel base. Areas with poor drainage should have a thicker stone base. To install a new asphalt driveway over an existing driveway, the new asphalt should be at least 2 inches thick and the existing driveway should be in relatively good condition.

Paving is a part of hardscaping, so all paving is hardscaping, but not all hardscaping is paving. Paving involves laying down concrete or asphalt, while hardscaping can also include the use of paving stones, bricks, gravel, wood, and more. Hardscape features that involve paving are considered permanent and will increase your property taxes, while some other hardscaping features—like those involving bricks, gravel, and paving stones—will not affect property taxes. Paving also typically requires a permit, while hardscaping features considered temporary will not.