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You can run a small or basic standard-size refrigerator on a 15-amp circuit. But you should plug a modern, standard-size refrigerator into a 20-amp dedicated circuit. The refrigerator needs to be on a dedicated circuit, meaning it is the only appliance and outlet on that circuit breaker. This method prevents tripping the breaker and reduces the chance of an electrical fire. 

A larger heater requires a larger breaker—unless there’s one already installed. The longer answer to this question is more nuanced. Do you place demands on the heater at the same time as running other heavy-duty appliances like ovens and washing machines? Do you live in an older home that may not have considered the higher electrical demands we have now? Breakers need to be sized at 125% of the load. To find that load, you should call a local electrical pro.

For most applications, you won’t need a neutral for 240V. There are certain codes and regulations that differ between areas so just because you technically may not need one in order for the device to function properly, it may still be a local requirement. Professionals in your area know the requirements, which is just another reason to hire one instead of taking on a project that is frankly not very DIY-friendly.

While most electrical items can be plugged into a GFCI outlet, some appliances with internal or stationary motors, such as refrigerators, vent fans, and fluorescent lighting, can cause nuisance tripping. This happens because they experience a small, normal amount of current leakage, which can cause the GFCI to trip even when the appliance is working correctly. Although this is not a safety hazard, it can be inconvenient and may cause the GFCI outlet to wear out faster. For this reason, it is often better to plug these types of appliances into a standard outlet. Additionally, electrical circuits over 100 feet long can sometimes cause tripping. Some appliances, like hair dryers, have their own built-in GFCI protection, so connecting them to a standard outlet is fine.