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The order of your bathroom renovation should prevent damage to the completed work. Start with demolition and removing the old fixtures. Then, address structural repairs or water damage, if needed. Next, tackle the rough-in phase for plumbing and electrical work, install waterproofing, and work on wall treatments like tile or paint. Install your shower or bathtub, toilet, vanity, and sink. Flooring goes in after major fixtures but before the toilet. Lastly, install new lighting fixtures, mirrors, and other finishing touches as desired.

Putting caulk around a toilet’s base where it touches the flooring can help hold the toilet in place. A more effective way is using caulk with plastic shim wedges. Place the shims underneath the base to steady and stabilize the toilet. Add some caulk to help keep the shims in place and provide a stronger and more lasting stabilization effect.

Toilet handles can get stuck for a couple of reasons, but it’s commonly an issue with the chain. Remove the lid and check the chain’s connection, running from the flapper to the handle arm. Sometimes the chain gets snagged on or against another part of the tank. 

The chain might not have the right tension. For example, a chain that’s too short can make the handle feel stuck. Check that there’s some slack in the chain. Old, worn-out flappers can get stuck, too. In this case, you’ll need to see which size toilet flapper you need.

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.