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You’ll have to balance up the cost, the value of the tree (sentimental or otherwise), and the risk factors. An experienced arborist will help you understand whether transplanting is likely to be successful. The cost and hassle of transplanting a large, well-established tree are often not worth it, especially if the species is fast-growing and easy to source. The decision depends on the age and species of the tree, the conditions in the new site location, and how careful the company is when digging out and moving the tree.

Late winter is ideal, but if you’re pruning apple trees in the spring, prune them as early as possible in the season. You want to ensure your tree is just creeping out of dormancy and hasn’t started pushing out new growth. If you prune your tree too late into spring, you generally won’t see results until the following year.

That said, there’s no pruning season for unhealthy growth. Remove dead, dying, or diseased branches as soon as you notice them, regardless of the time of year.

It depends on the problem, the affected part of the tree, the risk of the pathogen spreading, and the overall health of your tree. Many diseases, fungal infections, and insect infestations can be successfully treated, especially if the issue is only in a few branches. However, if a disease is too widespread, too severe, too easily spread, or in the roots, the tree will likely need to be removed.

Completely topping a plum tree is a risky business. Cut too much, and you’ll kill your tree. That said, you do need to trim the top of your tree to encourage bushy growth, maintain your tree’s vase shape, and limit size. 

A plum tree's central leader (or trunk) should never extend more than 3 feet above the highest branch. When you first plant your tree, cut the central leader so it’s 2 to 3 feet tall. As it grows, cut it back 12 to 20 inches until it reaches its desired height. Never prune more than one-third of the new growth.