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It depends on the type of tree. Typically, late spring on the cusp of winter is ideal for trees about to emerge from dormancy and produce new buds. That said, late fall is ideal for certain deciduous trees prone to bleeding sap. Avoid trimming trees in early spring, when they’re prone to disease.

If you’re wondering whether you can plant a tree where the stump was removed, know that the soil conditions won’t be ideal, so you should avoid it. The soil beneath the previous tree will likely be depleted of nutrients, plus there may be roots left behind that will seriously hinder the growth of a new tree. Also, if you use salt or other chemical solutions to kill the stump, these can linger in the soil for months or even years and prevent healthy growth. It’s best to choose a different spot that’s at least three feet away for a new tree, or wait at least a year and thoroughly amend the soil before you plant.

You can shape a cherry tree by trimming vertical branches, dense branches, and intersecting branches. Your personal aesthetic comes into play, as well. If you want to simply thin and shape the tree, you can get away with trimming the aforementioned parts of your cherry tree. If you want to shorten branches, however, consider thinning cuts, which alter the length of the branches while encouraging light penetration, new buds and shoots, and a structurally-sound shape.

Yes, cutting a tree's roots can cause it to fall, particularly if major support roots are severed. In extreme cases, trimming roots can affect the tree's structure and stability. Many crucial roots are located just below the soil's surface. If you make severe cuts to roots more than 2 inches in diameter, you risk impacting the tree's water flow and its ability to withstand severe winds or storms. Even cutting roots less than half an inch in diameter under or outside the tree's canopy can cut off its water supply, causing it to decline, die, and eventually topple.