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After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

Yes, but it's best to kill off the grass with solarization and remove the dead plant matter before laying down the pavers. This helps limit the chance of your pavers shifting as the dead plant matter decomposes.