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If it’s only a smaller branch that has died and you’re keeping an eye on the tree, it’s probably nothing to worry about. But if other nearby branches start dying off as well, or a very large branch dies, then you likely have a bigger problem. It’s time to watch for diseases and other problems and possibly get professional guidance on how to proceed.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

It’s possible, although a lot depends on the cause of damage and what steps you take. If the remaining parts of the maple tree are alive and not under attack by disease or pests, they can often be saved even if large portions of the maple tree have died. Frequent watering, careful pruning, mulch, and any recommended fungicides or insecticides can all help with survival.

As a general rule, the protected area should be about 1½ times as wide as the canopy of the tree’s leaves. This digging measurement can vary by tree species and the age of the tree. Of course, that can be a lot of fencing for larger trees, which is why our first step is about making difficult decisions on which trees to save.