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As a general rule, the protected area should be about 1½ times as wide as the canopy of the tree’s leaves. This digging measurement can vary by tree species and the age of the tree. Of course, that can be a lot of fencing for larger trees, which is why our first step is about making difficult decisions on which trees to save.

The best time to transplant a tree is when it is dormant. For many trees, this means either in the fall after the leaves have dropped (around October or November) or in early spring before new growth begins (around March). The ideal timing can depend on the type of tree. Deciduous trees do well when moved in early spring or fall, while evergreens are best transplanted in early spring or late summer. For example, pine trees are best moved in early fall, but maples prefer late fall. Avoid transplanting in winter, as the frozen or hard, cold soil poses a significant risk to the roots and prevents the tree from acclimating properly.

There are many signs that a tree is diseased or dying, and if you suspect that’s the case, you should call an arborist immediately. You might notice rot or fungus on the trunk or that the tree is beginning to lean to one side. Brittle branches or signs of root damage are other indicators that a tree is in trouble. If the tree is dying, it might be time to cut the tree down so it doesn’t fall.

A tree can grow back from its stump, but full regrowth is unlikely (especially for more stubborn conifer trees). Instead, trees are more likely to send up a number of shoots from the dead stump, which will try to develop into primary stems over time. In other words, it will start to look increasingly bushy. The goal of killing and drying out a tree stump is to prevent that from happening, as well as make the stump easier to completely remove.