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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

If pavers are uneven but not sunken, lift the affected bricks and check the bedding sand underneath. In many cases, simply smoothing out or adjusting the sand is enough to level them. Add or remove small amounts as needed, then press the pavers back into place and tap them with a mallet until they sit evenly with the surrounding surface.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.

Three inches is a great thickness for a residential asphalt driveway that sees minimal to moderate traffic from cars, SUVs, and pickup trucks. However, a thicker driveway can better withstand the weight of a heavier vehicle, such as a trailer or a recreational vehicle. If you drive a heavy vehicle on a thin driveway, you risk cracking and damaging it.