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Lead toxicity comes from inhaling lead or consuming it. Before the 1980s, when the government banned lead from consumer use, it could be found in paint, plumbing, pipes, ceramics, and even gasoline. Lead paint is toxic for the same reason lead itself is toxic, which is why lead poisoning from paint presents the same as lead poisoning from water or food sources, with a slight increase in respiratory symptoms vs. digestive symptoms. Lead paint is most dangerous when it’s old and peeling, cracking, or otherwise disturbed. This increases the concentration in the air and, therefore, in breathable air. 

You should ask a few questions to ensure that your potential lead removal professional is experienced and qualified to handle lead-paint abatement safely, legally, and properly.

• What are your qualifications and experience removing lead-based paint?

• Are you licensed and certified to remove lead-based paint?

• How do you test for lead paint?

• What methods do you use for lead-based paint abatement?

• What do you plan to do with the hazardous material when you remove it from the home?

• Do you do replacement and painting work or removal only?

You can paint over lead paint, or “encapsulate” it with a special paint that includes an ingredient called an encapsulant. The EPA approves encapsulation as a lead paint removal method as long as the paint remains undisturbed. Standard types of paint without an “encapsulant” from the big box stores or hardware stores do not meet EPA standards for remediation of lead-based paint.

You may see specialty products for sale to remove lead dust, such as D-Lead surface wipes. But you do not need to buy a special cleaner just for lead dust. A regular all-purpose cleaner, like 409 or something similar, is sufficient for cleanup. Just make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions when using it and to dilute with water.