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Calcium lumps in a pool are calcium deposits that form when a pool's water parameters are not in the normal range. They can float around on the surface of the pool water, making it look and feel dirty. The most common causes of calcium lumps in pools are calcium hardness above 1,000 ppm, alkalinity over 120, and a pH over 7.8. Keeping your pool’s calcium levels, alkalinity, and pH levels within the normal, safe ranges is the best way to prevent calcium lumps and other problems, including damage to the pool surface.

Shipping container pools are prone to rust and corrosion over time, especially if you install a saltwater system. Though the interior of your pool should be lined, the outside is at risk. Luckily there are a few things you can do.

Elevate your pool or place it on a foundation to prevent moisture buildup along the bottom of the container. Apply a rust inhibitor or paint to protect the outside of your pool, and maintain the proper chlorine levels to reduce the rate of corrosion. Regularly inspect your pool for signs of corrosion, and take action when necessary. 

Yes, you will need to shock your pool with high levels of chlorine or bromine when you first fill it to kill off bacteria and pathogens. You’ll need to wait for the chlorine concentration to come back down to a safe level before swimming. After that, you can test and maintain the chlorine and other levels as normal. The only exception to this is if you get pool water delivered by a professional. In that case, the water might come pretreated, so you might not need to shock it.

Concrete pools are very durable but can crack if not properly maintained. The most significant risk is winter weather and low temperatures when water can seep into crevices and freeze. To avoid damage, use the proper winterization chemicals, and don’t completely drain your pool. Concrete pool repairs cost around $75 per linear foot for small cracks.