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Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Unless you’re using a 2-in-1 formula or painting over an existing coat of paint, it pays to apply a coat of primer ahead of your new paint. Decks see a lot of footfall and exposure to extreme and sudden temperature changes and moisture levels. The primer promotes better paint adhesion, moisture repellency, and a smoother finish, which means you’ll often need fewer coats of paint. 

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

You’ll need to wait until the surface is completely dry, which can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours under optimal conditions. The waiting period depends on several factors, including the type of siding and the weather conditions. Trying to paint before the surface is completely dry can trap moisture under the paint, leading to bubbling, blistering, and mold growth.