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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

The most insulative type of insulation for behind drywall is spray foam insulation, but this is the most expensive insulation available. The most common insulation—sometimes considered the best for the value you get for the money—is fiberglass roll or fiberglass batt insulation, which is significantly more affordable but also far less insulative. The best kind of insulation for your house will also vary based on the climate in your area, your budget, and more. A professional insulation company can help you decide which type is best for your home.

Radiant barriers and insulation serve different purposes, so one is not inherently better than the other. Radiant barriers reflect radiant heat, helping keep spaces cool, especially in hot climates, while insulation slows heat transfer through conduction. For optimal energy efficiency, it’s best to use both together. 

Radiant barriers can enhance the performance of insulation by preventing heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. The choice between them depends on specific climate conditions and the building’s design requirements.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.