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You can use pressure-treated wood for a horizontal fence, but you’ll need to purchase a thicker and higher-quality variety to ensure it doesn’t sag or warp after you install it. Use #2 pine grade lumber and boards and thicker dimensional lumber, such as a two-by-six. You’ll also need to use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners, as the chemicals in the treated lumber will cause regular galvanized fasteners to rust. 

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Green branches are more flexible and easier to work with, but they'll shrink as they dry, which can loosen your fence weave over time—so you'll need to weave them extra tight to account for shrinkage. Some species, particularly willow, may also try to sprout when used green. For these reasons, it’s typically easiest to use branches that have dried for a week or two.

No, fence posts aren’t always set in concrete. If you don’t want to use concrete footings for your posts, expanding foam is a popular alternative. Expanding foam and concrete each have certain pros and cons. For instance, foam is easier to install and more sustainable, but concrete is sturdier and less expensive.