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If you aren’t sure what you’re doing, be very careful when cutting mature tree roots (roots larger than 2 inches). Root cutting and pruning can affect both a tree’s stability and its ability to nourish itself. Issues during root cutting can result in damage or injury. 

It’s recommended you call in a pro to help, unless it’s a very small tree and you aren’t worried about the prospect of losing the tree.

Late winter is ideal, but if you’re pruning apple trees in the spring, prune them as early as possible in the season. You want to ensure your tree is just creeping out of dormancy and hasn’t started pushing out new growth. If you prune your tree too late into spring, you generally won’t see results until the following year.

That said, there’s no pruning season for unhealthy growth. Remove dead, dying, or diseased branches as soon as you notice them, regardless of the time of year.

Generally, homeowners do not need permission to cut down a tree on their own private property, but there are several exceptions where a permit may be required. You might need a permit if the tree is particularly large, old, or a protected species, such as a heritage tree. Trees located near public property or power lines can also be subject to special rules. Additionally, many local governments and homeowners associations (HOAs) have regulations controlling which trees can be removed to manage an area's appearance or prevent the spread of invasive species. To avoid hefty fines, it is crucial to check with your local government and HOA to determine if a permit is needed before you begin.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.