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There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.

To hide drywall edges, you need to properly apply drywall tape and multiple layers of joint compound. These materials hide the seams between drywall sheets and fill the holes from drywall screws, leaving behind a smooth, flat finish to paint over. Apply joint compound smoothly, and finish the job by sanding the walls to make sure you fully hide drywall edges and other imperfections.

The easiest way to cut holes in drywall for electrical boxes is to use a spiral saw with a drywall router bit. Hang the drywall without cutting out a hole for the box, but make sure you measure and mark where the box is located on the wall. Once you screw in the drywall sheet, drill a small hole into the box void, insert the spiral saw bit, and move it around the edge of the box using the inside wall as a guide. You can also use an oscillating multi-tool with an electrical box cutout for fast, professional results.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.