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For glass tile, you want to use unsanded grout. Sanded grout is a stronger and grittier cement grout that is great for installing tiles with wider gaps and into joints. However, it is susceptible to scratching glass tile and is more difficult to use in thinner gaps. Unsanded grout, while more expensive, is easier to fit between thin gaps and is less harsh on delicate materials, like glass tile.

The process takes two to four days, depending on the size of the area and your experience level. The first day involves assessing and prepping the existing tile, while the second day is for laying the new tile. This may take longer in complex areas. After letting the adhesive dry for 24 hours, grouting and sealing can be completed on day three. For larger projects or intricate tile patterns, expect the timeline to stretch a bit longer. Also, proper drying time between steps is essential for long-lasting results, which extends the project’s time.

You can lay tile directly on a plywood countertop, but if it’s a high-traffic surface in a kitchen, it’s better to add a moisture-resistant base. Plywood is susceptible to moisture, so if dampness seeps through from the surface around the sink or where you prep food, it can cause the plywood to warp, leading to grout damage, cracked tiles, or mold growth under the surface. 

You can technically install tile over tile, but we don’t suggest it. Installing tile over any surface that isn’t a completely flat and prepared subfloor will result in a shoddy overall job, uneven flooring, tiles that don’t adhere, extra weight, gaps, cracks, and room for moisture and dirt to enter. For the best results, only install new tile on a flat, sanded surface like subflooring or concrete that is prepared for tile.

If you have asbestos tile and would rather tile over it than remove it, or if your existing tile is completely flat and bonded tightly to the floor, you may be able to tile over existing tile. But experts recommend thinking twice before you do.