Get matched with top toilet pros in Plains, MT

A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

If you don’t replace a toilet flapper, your toilet tank will continue to empty and fill repeatedly, wasting water and running up your utility bills. Checking the flapper is a good first guess when dealing with a constantly running toilet. However, if these problems continue after replacing the flapper, you may need to hire a plumber to check and fix any bigger problems. 

The biggest sign that your flange leaks is if you notice water at the base of the toilet. The cause is likely due to a poor flange installation, so you might have issues with loose bolts, an uneven flange, or a cracked plastic flange. Add a deteriorating wax seal to this, and you have a recipe for disaster. The best solution is to shut off the water valve, replace the toilet flange, and seal it with a new wax ring.

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.