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The pressure in a well pressure tank should be set 2 to 3 PSI below the pump's cut-on pressure. The cut-on pressure is the lower number in the pressure setting (e.g., the '30' in 30/50 PSI) and is the point at which the pump starts. The cut-out pressure is the higher number, where the pump stops.

For example:

• If your pressure switch is set to 30/50 PSI, the tank pressure should be 27-28 PSI.

• If your pressure switch is set to 40/60 PSI, the tank pressure should be 38 PSI.

Common pressure settings for household applications include 20/40, 30/50, and 40/60 PSI. The difference between the cut-on and cut-out pressure is typically 20 PSI.

Bladder and diaphragm well pressure tanks are usually pre-charged at the factory. Even so, it’s important to check the air pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge on the relief valve. The instruction manual usually calls for 28 psi. Use a hand pump to add more air or release some air from the tank to reach the desired number. Check the pressure periodically to see if you need to add more air to the tank.

For the most part, choosing between 30/50 psi and 40/60 psi is based on your water-pressure preference. However, it can also depend a little bit on your house—if you have older plumbing, a lower water pressure can be easier on the pipes (and a bit more gentle on your well pump). 

The lower 30/50 pressure is usually enough for a single-story home, but you may want 40/60 if you have multiple stories, as the extra pressure helps water flow smoothly up to the second floor.

Having a well means that a household’s water supply, including water that comes through faucets, showerheads, and appliances, is supplied through a private source rather than from a city. The well pulls fresh water from an underground water supply, such as an aquifer, and the well pump pushes the water from the well to your household.