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For the most part, choosing between 30/50 psi and 40/60 psi is based on your water-pressure preference. However, it can also depend a little bit on your house—if you have older plumbing, a lower water pressure can be easier on the pipes (and a bit more gentle on your well pump). 

The lower 30/50 pressure is usually enough for a single-story home, but you may want 40/60 if you have multiple stories, as the extra pressure helps water flow smoothly up to the second floor.

How do you set your well’s pressure tank? All you need to do is first drain the tank of water and find the pressure switch. Remove the switch cover and adjust the switch with a wrench—clockwise to increase water pressure, and counter-clockwise to reduce it. Each complete turn of the nut on the switch should equal 2.5 psi. Once this is done, replace the switch cover. All that’s left is to adjust the pressure of the tank itself using an air compressor and a tire gauge to support the new setting.

Needing to pump the tank as soon as it “looks” full is a common myth about septic systems, as wastewater will eventually drain into the leach field. Instead, it’s better to determine how many solids have accumulated. A septic maintenance technician near you can test this to find out whether pumping is necessary.

Common signs that your well pump is failing include fluctuating or consistently poor water pressure, sputtering water from faucets, or a complete loss of water. Other indicators are unusual noises coming from the pump, the pump running continuously, dirty or cloudy water, or a sudden, unexplained spike in your utility bills. While some issues, especially after a power outage, might be resolved by simply restarting the power or priming the pump, persistent problems suggest a more serious issue. If you notice any of these red flags, it is recommended to call a professional well pump service to inspect the system and determine whether it needs to be repaired or replaced.