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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

The easiest way to cut holes in drywall for electrical boxes is to use a spiral saw with a drywall router bit. Hang the drywall without cutting out a hole for the box, but make sure you measure and mark where the box is located on the wall. Once you screw in the drywall sheet, drill a small hole into the box void, insert the spiral saw bit, and move it around the edge of the box using the inside wall as a guide. You can also use an oscillating multi-tool with an electrical box cutout for fast, professional results.

You should do a little bit of sanding between adding coats of mud. Knock down any ridges or significantly imperfect areas through sanding, which should help you apply the next coat of mud smoothly. If your first coat of mud is pretty smooth after it dries, a quick sanding is all you’ll need. Don’t forget to wipe away any dust after each sanding process.

Drywall can be installed directly on ceiling joists. In fact, this method is common in many construction projects. Drywall sheets are attached to the joists using screws, ensuring a secure and stable installation. Before attaching the drywall, it's important to mark the joist locations on the ceiling, allowing for accurate screw placement. Proper spacing between screws and careful taping and mudding of joints are crucial to creating a smooth and flawless ceiling surface. If the joists are in good condition and level, installing drywall directly on them is a practical and efficient approach.