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Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.

It’s not always easy to tell when a tree is dying, although signs like dropping branches and brittle bark can sometimes offer clues. It can also be difficult to know whether a tree is dead or dormant, especially if it’s a deciduous tree. You’ll want to wait until a growth season to get a good idea of a tree’s health. When in doubt, contact an arborist for a consultation.

On grafted trees, tree suckers will grow from the root stock, not the branches grafted onto it. Therefore, the leaves and characteristics of the suckers aren’t the same as the tree because they are different varieties. Root stock has more hardiness, strength, or drought tolerance than its grafted limbs, so if the suckers are from fruit or flowers, it might be different than the main part of your tree.

For safety reasons, leaning trees are best removed by a professional, as they may often tear away from the hinge, causing you to lose control over where the tree falls. If you choose to cut down a tree leaning slightly, avoid cutting off root protrusions before you start. Make your hinge a little longer than usual by cutting it deeper (up to 30% of the diameter) and applying a wedge into the felling cut on the side the tree is leaning. Stand away from the direction the tree leans while making your felling cut.