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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Yes, forestry mulching can grind stumps, but the level of effectiveness depends on the equipment used. Drum mulchers can break down smaller stumps, but larger or deep-rooted stumps may require a dedicated stump grinder for complete removal. If full stump removal is necessary for replanting or construction, additional excavation may be needed. Always check with your forestry mulching provider to confirm whether they offer stump grinding and if their equipment is suitable for your specific needs.

No. Most of the time, suckers are only a sign that the tree is experiencing stress. However, they can also be the canary in the coal mine, letting you know that something else is stressing your tree. If you have lots of suckers on your tree, calling in an arborist or a tree care expert is always a good call to determine the cause and develop a solution that de-stresses your tree.

The best time to trim trees is in late fall through winter when the tree has slowed its growing for the year. Cold weather stops insects and fungal growth from attacking a new tree wound. Summer and fall are considered the worst times to trim trees, but it’s permissible in certain scenarios, such as tree disease, damaged branches, or small, aesthetic cuts.