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Decomposed granite and caliche can both harden into a solid surface using a plate compactor. However, due to decomposed granite’s fine particles, it’s not suitable for driveway surfaces. Some homeowners use pea gravel mixed with a gravel-binding resin to bind the loose stones and create a solid surface that won’t shift like loose gravel.

Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

To adhere pavers to concrete, you can use either mortar or a concrete-specific adhesive. For border pavers, a polyurethane-based adhesive is a good choice as it expands and contracts with temperature changes, keeping them firmly in place. For the non-border pavers, polymeric sand is used between the joints to prevent shifting. In most cases, it is also recommended to lay a permeable sand layer below the pavers to ensure proper stability and drainage. Before starting, always take the proper preparatory steps for a professional result.