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TRUSTED BY FOREST HEIGHTS, MD HOMEOWNERS

  • Average homeowner rating star icon4.4
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  • Verified reviews icon168
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Find Drywall insulation pros in Forest Heights

Avatar for ROI Construction LLC
ROI Construction LLC
4.3(
17
)
Blown-In Insulation - Install or UpgradeInjection Insulation - InstallInsulation - Install or Upgrade

Serving Forest Heights, MD and surrounding areas

Approved

In business since 1974

Free estimates

Warranties offered

"We had a great experience with ROI Construction sales representative David Burke. David was very knowledgeable about ROI's porducts and services. We look forward to getting our attic insulation project completed and will provide a more thorough review at that time. Thanks, Tim"
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+19

51 neighbors recently requested a quote
Recommended by90%of homeowners
Accurate Insulation - Home Facebook
4.2(
152
)
Blown-In Insulation - Install or UpgradeInjection Insulation - Install

Serving Forest Heights, MD and surrounding areas

In business since 2005

Free estimates

Credit card accepted

"Accurate insulation came promptly at the specified time. They were thorough and so professional. The quality of work is fantastic. Couldn’t be more satisfied. This is the second time that we’ve used them and will not hesitate to use them again shall the need arises."
Response time2 days
Recommended by97%of homeowners
Cameron Home Insulation
4.6(
40
)
Blown-In Insulation - Install or UpgradeInjection Insulation - InstallInsulation - Install or Upgrade

Serving Forest Heights, MD and surrounding areas

In business since 1907

Free estimates

Credit card accepted

"Debbie, the AC&R salesperson, was very knowledgeable and confident. They were the 2nd quote I got for work and came in even lower than I expected (which gave me pause as a low bid is a red flag). But true to her word, they did the work professionally (mostly...see below) and promptly. While I had another company do the energy audit for the Pepco rebate, AC&R took over the work, did the blown fiberglass one day and the spray foam the next.



For the blown fiberglass in the attics above our additions, they added spray foam (from a can) around any gaps per the contract and foam board baffles at the soffits. The installer noted that all our soffits were blocked and the batting insulation was too wide for the rafter channels, so he leveled it out as best he could to ensure an even coating of blown insulation. At the end, he sealed up the gaps between the attic and our to-be-finished upstairs (cape cod style, so all one room).



For the spray foam insulation, the team came in the next day, and I had to be out of the house due to fumes. I did come back around noon as they expected to be done well before then. They didn't know I came in and I went to the back of the house to watch TV on my work break. The one annoyance was during their cleanup, one of the installers came down into our kitchen and then saw me. He said he was looking for a vacuum cleaner to clean the stairs. I told him don't worry about the carpet as it was getting pulled up, but this was the one piece of unprofessionalism I noted above. Contractors should NEVER use the homeowner's property; they should bring their own tools, including vacuums!



While the spray foam can get very messy, they kept the splatter mostly contained to inside the crawlspace, not the finished flooring. However, I was surprised that they didn't tape off the outlet covers or light switched. since the particles are so small, we're going to have to replace the switches/receptacles at our cost. Also, there was a storm door screen that wasn't covered and now needs cleaned. Basically, I think they should have taken more care in covering the very few items we left upstairs and the outlets/switches.



They didn't spray around the window frames (large gaps where window weights used to be) because the open cell foam would expand too much. If I wasn't there, I think they would have just left, but it was clear in our contract discussions they needed to insulate those spaces too. They used a few cans of "Good Stuff" equivalent, but didn't fill in the gaps entirely. It did the job well enough, but it's a ding against them as I expected more preparation.



Lastly, I thought that AC&R would walk me through all the scheduling and final "test out" (for the Pepco rebate), but I had to contact them and schedule with someone different each time. They were always prompt, but I expect the experts to know to do this for/with me rather than expect me to know the process. I go through it once in a lifetime while they do it weekly.



While the end of the review sounds more negative than positive, I would definitely recommend AC&R out to others as they're priced right, they have been in business for over a century, and like any contractor, you just need to follow up to be sure everything is done to your satisfaction.
"
Recommended by100%of homeowners
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Drywall Insulation questions, answered by experts

Yes, walls on the top floor can be load-bearing if stacked on the floor’s foundation.

It’s not a good idea to plaster over broken plaster (unless by broken you’re referring to cracked, in which case that’s perfectly fine). However, broken plaster can be a sign of a larger underlying issue like foundation damage or severe damage to the lath holding up the plaster, so it’s worth investigating before you simply plaster on top of the damage.

You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.

The easiest way to remove texture from walls is the soak-and-scrape method. You’ll need to spray a section of the wall with water and let the water soak in and soften the texture. Then, you need to scrape the texture off using a drywall taping knife. This method works best with unpainted walls since paint prevents water from saturating the textured joint compound.

Whether you need drywall anchors depends on your specific project, particularly where you are hanging an item. Drywall anchors are not necessary if you can drive a screw directly into a wooden stud behind the wall, as the stud provides sufficient support. However, since studs are not present everywhere in a wall, you will need to use drywall anchors if you are hanging an object in a location without a stud. For very lightweight items, picture hanging strips can also be a suitable alternative.

The Forest Heights, MD homeowners’ guide to drywall insulation services

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