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No, it’s not recommended to attach shutters to brick without drilling. Brick is dense and built to last, so adhesives and shortcut methods don’t usually cut it. Even heavy-duty glue struggles to hold up over time—especially against wind, moisture, and temperature changes. Most no-drill options are made for materials like vinyl or wood, not solid masonry. Skipping the drill might seem easier, but it puts your shutters—and anything below them—at risk. For a secure, lasting install, drilling is the way to go. It takes more effort up front, but the result is safer and more reliable.

On average, a well-built brick mailbox can last between 30 and 100 years. The insert that holds mail inside the mailbox may last 15 to 25 years before it needs to be replaced. If a mailbox needs to be fixed due to damage, make sure you know who to hire for brick repair.

Yes, concrete is significantly stronger than masonry, especially if the concrete pour includes reinforcements, like steel rebar. Concrete is a uniform material that can withstand compression, sheer force, and tensile force as long as it’s reinforced. Masonry involves the use of mortar or grout to connect individual building materials, like brick, stone, or tile. Mortar and grout are also reasonably strong and resist compression well, but they don’t come close to the strength of poured concrete.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.