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If executed correctly your tree should survive after being transplanted to a new spot. However, effective transplanting requires six months, careful root pruning, safe transport to the new location, and replanting in prime soil conditions. You’ll also need an appropriately sized root ball for a complete tree transplant. A good rule of thumb is that, for every inch in diameter, your tree’s root ball needs to be around 11 inches. So a tree with a diameter of six inches needs a root ball of approximately 66 inches.

The best way is to start controlling tree height long before it grows too large, via careful pruning through the years. But that’s not always possible. If a tree has become too high or too large, use selective pruning to remove the most troublesome branches, one by one, without topping the tree. Gently shaping a tree like this can, over time, correct problems. You can also find growth inhibitors to spray on a tree to stop it from growing too rapidly, but use these sparingly if at all.

The best time to prune Japanese flowering cherry trees depends on where you live and the type of flowering cherry tree. Some trees benefit from being pruned toward the end of winter or early spring, after the last freeze. Meanwhile, other trees do well after blooming, in late spring or early summer. Avoid pruning your flowering cherry tree in the early winter, as this encourages open wounds that can lead to infections or infestations. 

Pruning can impact cold hardiness—but it’s less about the exact temperature and more about temperature variation. Generally, you don’t want to prune trees when there’s a risk of temperatures suddenly dropping from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit to 0 degrees Fahrenheit or below. A tree is most sensitive until 48 hours after it’s pruned.