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Most standard residential water heaters, which are typically around 40 gallons and use 240 volts and between 3,500 and 5,500 watts, require a 30-amp, two-pole circuit breaker. For smaller, point-of-use water heaters using 120 volts and between 1,500 and 3,000 watts, a 30-amp breaker is also often adequate. However, some models may have different needs; units that use more watts than average may require a 40-amp breaker, while smaller units might only need a 20-amp breaker. Newer, tankless, or more energy-efficient models can also require a higher amperage. Having the correct breaker size is crucial for safe and efficient operation, so it's best to consult a licensed electrician to determine the specific needs of your water heater.

Flickering lights, warm outlets, or tripped circuits needing immediate attention mean systems likely risk hazard scare.

While most electrical items can be plugged into a GFCI outlet, some appliances with internal or stationary motors, such as refrigerators, vent fans, and fluorescent lighting, can cause nuisance tripping. This happens because they experience a small, normal amount of current leakage, which can cause the GFCI to trip even when the appliance is working correctly. Although this is not a safety hazard, it can be inconvenient and may cause the GFCI outlet to wear out faster. For this reason, it is often better to plug these types of appliances into a standard outlet. Additionally, electrical circuits over 100 feet long can sometimes cause tripping. Some appliances, like hair dryers, have their own built-in GFCI protection, so connecting them to a standard outlet is fine.

Unless you’re a licensed electrician with extensive experience in upgrading electric panels, you must hire a professional for any electrical work. A licensed electrician will make sure your breaker is upgraded safely and in compliance with local codes. Your pro will also take care of any permits and inspections that are needed.