You can paint over lead paint, or “encapsulate” it with a special paint that includes an ingredient called an encapsulant. The EPA approves encapsulation as a lead paint removal method as long as the paint remains undisturbed. Standard types of paint without an “encapsulant” from the big box stores or hardware stores do not meet EPA standards for remediation of lead-based paint.

You should ask a few questions to ensure that your potential lead removal professional is experienced and qualified to handle lead-paint abatement safely, legally, and properly.

• What are your qualifications and experience removing lead-based paint?

• Are you licensed and certified to remove lead-based paint?

• How do you test for lead paint?

• What methods do you use for lead-based paint abatement?

• What do you plan to do with the hazardous material when you remove it from the home?

• Do you do replacement and painting work or removal only?

Lead toxicity comes from inhaling lead or consuming it. Before the 1980s, when the government banned lead from consumer use, it could be found in paint, plumbing, pipes, ceramics, and even gasoline. Lead paint is toxic for the same reason lead itself is toxic, which is why lead poisoning from paint presents the same as lead poisoning from water or food sources, with a slight increase in respiratory symptoms vs. digestive symptoms. Lead paint is most dangerous when it’s old and peeling, cracking, or otherwise disturbed. This increases the concentration in the air and, therefore, in breathable air. 

Embarking on a kitchen demolition comes with its share of risks to keep in mind. Think of potential encounters with asbestos, sharp objects, and power tools—not to mention the peril of structures wobbling or unexpected plumbing surprises. And, of course, you will be surrounded by dust and debris throughout the process. All of the above makes safety gear necessary, or you can consider hiring a qualified professional.