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The most insulative type of insulation for behind drywall is spray foam insulation, but this is the most expensive insulation available. The most common insulation—sometimes considered the best for the value you get for the money—is fiberglass roll or fiberglass batt insulation, which is significantly more affordable but also far less insulative. The best kind of insulation for your house will also vary based on the climate in your area, your budget, and more. A professional insulation company can help you decide which type is best for your home.

Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.

Yes, cold walls are a common indicator of poor or inadequate insulation, especially if the walls feel significantly colder than the air in the room. This suggests that heat from your furnace is escaping rather than being retained. The issue could be that the walls have no insulation, or that the existing insulation is old or has been damaged by water, moisture, or pests. Your best course of action is to hire a professional to investigate. An insulation contractor can determine if you need to add or replace insulation and can often perform the work without creating large holes in your drywall. If you suspect the problem might also be related to your heating system's performance, an HVAC technician can take a closer look.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.