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Yes, it is normal to see some minor hairline cracks in brick or mortar over time, often due to natural foundation settling. However, not all cracks are harmless. You should be concerned and contact a masonry professional for an inspection if you notice cracks that are getting wider or longer, or if new ones keep appearing. Other serious warning signs that can indicate significant structural or foundation damage include large vertical cracks (especially those that widen as they go up), stair-step cracks, L-shaped cracks, and deep horizontal cracks. Factors like temperature changes, moisture, and structural loading can also cause cracks to form or worsen.

A mason lays brick or stone together, sometimes with mortar in between the bricks and stones, and sometimes without mortar, also called a dry-stack or surface bonding. Examples of work masons do include:

• Brick, stone, or cement block houses and buildings

• Freestanding stone or brick walls

• Chimneys with wood-burning fireplaces

• Cement block basement or crawl space walls

When painting brick, each application method has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Spraying is significantly faster but may not penetrate deeply beyond the surface layer. Rolling is effective for working paint into the brick's texture but can be less effective on mortar joints. If you opt for a roller, choose a thick nap of at least a half-inch to ensure paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage. Using a brush is generally not recommended as it is very time-consuming and provides poor surface penetration. Ultimately, a combination of spraying followed by back-rolling is often the best strategy for a durable and even finish.

Mortar and thinset both serve the same purpose—tile adhesion—but have different compositions and use-cases. Thinset is heatproof and presents a wide range of possibilities due to the added polymers. Mortar is typically used for bonding stones and brick. Thinset is rarely used outside, while mortar is rarely used inside.