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There should be small gaps between your roof and the walls of your home, and other buildings. These small gaps let building materials shift, expand, and contract with weather and other outside forces, and they prevent moisture from wicking down walls from roofing and gutter systems. Without these strategic gaps, your home’s exterior and its finishes can sustain water damage, decay, peel, delaminate, and crack. However, there is a fine line between a smart gap and a problematic gap—all  gaps should be small, intentional, and covered or filled in with foam insulation to prevent pests from using them as access points.

Yes, shingles should overhang the drip edge, typically between 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch. An overhang shorter than 1/2-inch can allow wind-driven rain to get under the shingles and damage the roof deck or fascia. Conversely, an overhang longer than 3/4-inch increases the risk of shingles getting caught by strong winds, which can lead to roof uplift. Always check your local building code for exact overhang requirements in your area.

It’s possible to install your chimney cap in some areas, but it’s usually better to hire a professional. Before you attempt a DIY chimney cap installation, check to see if your local building department requires a permit. If it does, you should hire a professional to pull the permit and complete the work for you. Even if you don’t need a permit, getting up on your roof is dangerous, especially if you have an aggressive pitch or slippery roof material, like metal. Hiring a chimney professional guarantees the job is done correctly and keeps you safe from injury.

A standard roof can hold a live load of about 20 pounds per square foot. However, gable roofs often have steeper-than-average slopes, so calculating their weight capacity can be challenging. If the slope of your gable roof is greater than 4:12, the live load needs to be decreased to allow for a larger dead load. Ask your roofer exactly how much weight your roof can support.