Hard soil could be a sign of overly dry dirt, either from poor drainage or drought. It's important to test the nutrient levels, density, and drainage capacity of your soil to see if it's absorbing water properly. Begin by adding a light layer of water and observing how long the soil retains moisture. If you experience a good deal of runoff, you may need to aerate your lawn, apply a wetting agent, or hire a professional for a closer look.

Trenching and boring are two distinct methods for installing underground utilities. Trenching involves digging a channel using equipment like an excavator, trencher, backhoe, or shovel. While it is a simpler process, it causes significant disruption to the surface, landscaping, and surrounding ecosystems.

Boring, also known as directional boring, is a less invasive alternative that uses a drill to create a tunnel for utility lines without disturbing the surface. This method is more precise and is ideal for installations that need to go underneath buildings, roads, or bodies of water. Although boring is less disruptive, it is generally more expensive than trenching.

Yes. A metal detector is one of the quickest and easiest ways to find your septic tank. However, metal detectors can be too expensive (costing upward of $300 in some cases), and not everyone has a metal detector just lying around. If that’s the case for you, you can also take a long metal rod and poke it into the ground at regular intervals until you hit something—likely your septic tank lid.

A trench that is less than 5 feet deep often doesn't require a protective system. Most residential trenches will not go this deep (the typical residential drainage trench is just 18 inches deep). In the event that an excavator needs to dig more than 5 feet beneath the surface, a protective system is required unless the excavation is in entirely stable rock.