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Toilets questions, answered by experts

Most toilets have a 12-inch rough-in or hole, but some have 10- or 14-inch holes, which means that not all toilets fit all setups. Knowing how to measure the rough-in is essential, so you purchase a toilet that fits the existing drain hole. It can be costly to have the rough-in moved, and most stores don’t accept toilet returns.

To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket. 

The biggest sign that your flange leaks is if you notice water at the base of the toilet. The cause is likely due to a poor flange installation, so you might have issues with loose bolts, an uneven flange, or a cracked plastic flange. Add a deteriorating wax seal to this, and you have a recipe for disaster. The best solution is to shut off the water valve, replace the toilet flange, and seal it with a new wax ring.

Costs depend on door material, labor, additional hardware, and whether structural modifications are needed.

Putting caulk around a toilet’s base where it touches the flooring can help hold the toilet in place. A more effective way is using caulk with plastic shim wedges. Place the shims underneath the base to steady and stabilize the toilet. Add some caulk to help keep the shims in place and provide a stronger and more lasting stabilization effect.

The Holmen, WI homeowners’ guide to toilet services

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