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On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Since wood is weaker when installed horizontally versus vertically, a horizontal fence is prone to sagging. You can prevent this drooping from happening by building a sturdier fence. Use softwoods that are more stable, such as cedar and redwood, or denser hardwoods for your fence materials. If you can’t afford these pricey materials, use thicker two-by-six pressure-treated pine boards or shorten the span the fence boards have to cover by installing more posts.

Yes, installing wrought iron fencing will usually require a building permit, as do all types of fencing. Building permits for wrought iron fencing typically cost between $150 and $500, and the price will vary based on where you live and how much your local building department charges. You may also need to pay for a property survey if you’re installing wrought iron fencing on your property line. This type of survey can cost around $500, but it prevents issues with building on neighboring properties, which can be much more expensive in the long run.

Moisture and rot are the largest threat to wooden fences. Stain can help your wood fence last 15 to 20 years, but only if you choose a stain with waterproofing qualities or add a sealant. Oil-based stains create a thicker moisture barrier than water-based stains, though both are mold and mildew resistant. You’ll generally need to re-stain your fence every one to eight years to get full protection.