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Yes, you should lightly wet the sand with a hose before laying the pavers on top. This activates the bonding agents in the sand, ensuring that your pavers don’t shift around during the installation process. However, you should make sure that the sand is not soaked; overwatering can cause the sand and pavers to not set properly.

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.

The most common causes of sunken pavers are poor base preparation and insufficient compaction. The problem could also be how your pavers were installed. If the soil beneath your patio or walkway wasn't compacted, it will pull pavers down as it settles. Additionally, using bare soil instead of making a paver bed with compacted gravel and sand can cause sinking over time. To fix sunken pavers, consider recompacting the base and addressing any drainage or erosion issues in the area.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.