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Your local government is usually in charge of pruning trees on public property, and the power company is responsible for trees near power lines (even if they’re on your property). Whether or not they top these trees depends on their approach to pruning. You won’t be able to do much to control this, but you can contact them to find out more about their pruning process.

A few signs a tree may be dead is if the leaves are dead and there are no signs of new blooms. You can also perform a scratch test on some of the branches to check the condition of the cambium layer beneath the bark.

If it is green, it is still alive, but if several are dry, brittle, and brown, the tree may be dying or dead. Always consult an arborist before assuming your tree is dead because you may be able to save it.

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.

It takes anywhere from three to seven years for a stump to decompose on its own. This timeframe can depend on the kind of tree and your climate. The lower to the ground the stump is, the faster it rots. If you kill a tree stump with salt, boiling water, herbicide, light deprivation, or burning, the tree stump decomposes faster.