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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

You should stain both sides of your fence to get the full benefits. Fences often fall along property lines, so you may want to save a buck by leaving your neighbor’s side in the dust. If you do that, all you get is a slightly better view. Moisture and UV rays can still sneak in through the side that’s unpainted or worn down and damage your fence. Rot and rust will spread, even if you can’t see it from your side of the lawn.

Stains penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry, so you want to avoid moisture. If the wood is wet upon application, or if it rains before the stain dries, the water will soak into the wood and displace the staining solution. This leads to a flaky and blotchy look, which is the opposite of a sumptuous even coat. Once the stain has fully cured, after about 3 days, rain shouldn’t cause you any problems.