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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Oxygen bleach uses hydrogen peroxide as a base and won’t harm wood when using it as a cleaner. On the other hand, chlorine bleach breaks down wood at the cellular level and causes irreversible harm. Although you may not see immediate damage to wood after exposing it to chlorine bleach, its strength and integrity are now compromised.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Moisture and rot are the largest threat to wooden fences. Stain can help your wood fence last 15 to 20 years, but only if you choose a stain with waterproofing qualities or add a sealant. Oil-based stains create a thicker moisture barrier than water-based stains, though both are mold and mildew resistant. You’ll generally need to re-stain your fence every one to eight years to get full protection.

Pricing depends on prep work, paint/stain choice, area size, scaffolding needs, and detailed trim inclusions like precision-balanced windowsills.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

The Murray, UT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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