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Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Wood stain is typically dry to the touch within 6 to 12 hours, but it is not fully cured at this point. You should wait at least 24 hours before applying a second coat or a protective finish. For surfaces like decks, avoid walking on them for at least 24 to 48 hours, and wait even longer before placing furniture. The full curing process can take from 24 hours to one week, depending on the type of stain. Factors like high humidity and cold temperatures can extend drying and curing times, so it's wise to allow for extra time in these conditions.

It is not always necessary to remove old stain before restaining a deck. If the previous stain is in good condition and is compatible with the new stain, you may be able to apply a new coat after thorough cleaning. However, if the old stain is in bad condition, flaking, or peeling, it is best to remove it completely to ensure an even surface and proper adhesion for the new coat. Staining over a damaged layer can lead to an uneven finish and poor penetration. For best results, test a small area first and consult the stain manufacturer's guidelines.