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You can check your own septic tank, but take precautions. Locate the access lid, usually buried a few inches underground, and remove it carefully. Look for the sludge and scum levels, and if they’re high, that means pumping may be necessary. Check for odors, slow drains, or pooling water around the drain field, which could indicate issues. Never enter the tank, as toxic gases can be fatal. All of that being said, a professional inspection is safer and more thorough.

The purpose of a septic tank is to allow solid wastes to separate out of the wastewater using time, gravity, and other natural biological processes. If your septic tank is too small, it might be overwhelmed by solid waste and unable to accomplish this task—and if it’s far too large, there won’t be enough liquid in the tank to nurture the necessary bacteria to aid in the breakdown process.

Concrete septic tank risers are heavier and more durable than plastic or fiberglass ones, making them suitable for long-term use. Installing a concrete riser differs from installing plastic or fiberglass risers primarily in the materials and methods used. The process involves cutting the concrete risers to the required length and then stacking them, using concrete sealant or adhesive between sections for secure attachment. Due to their weight, extra care is necessary during leveling and the attachment of sections. Concrete sealant or adhesive may also require a curing before the riser is ready for use.

Adding a thin layer of dirt over a septic drain field is fine, especially if soil erosion has occurred. However, adding too much dirt can compact the soil, reducing the drain field’s ability to absorb and filter wastewater properly. Avoid using heavy clay soil, as it can prevent proper drainage. Instead, use a light layer of topsoil and plant grass to help with soil stability.