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Radon Detection and Reduction questions, answered by experts

A homeowner can install a radon mitigation system on their own. But it’s a challenging DIY that requires a lot of knowledge about radon mitigation as well as familiarity with local regulations. You do not want to risk an improper installation that leaves the system unable to detect radon or gives it a shortened life span. Relying on a professional is the surest way to guarantee a successful installation.

Radon enters your home when warm air begins to rise and exits through the roof, creating a vacuum that pulls cooler air from under the foundation. Part of that air is radon, which is an invisible, odorless gas that develops naturally when radioactive particles are deep within the ground. Those particles usually come from decaying matter in soil and rocks.

Radon is present almost everywhere but, like sunlight, the concentration levels and how often you are exposed to it have a large part to play in just how dangerous it is. There are levels of radon that are acceptable inside a house, but above a certain limit, radon becomes a serious radioactive hazard that is a known cause of lung cancer. In fact, radon exposure is the number two leading cause of lung cancer (after smoking).

The average radon mitigation system uses about 876 kWh of electricity per year, although the exact amount of electricity used will vary depending on the size of the radon fan. Once the system is installed, the annual increase to your energy bill could range from $30 to $300 per year, again depending on the size of the fan.

No level of radon is technically safe, but since it is present everywhere, complete avoidance is impossible. The average radon level in homes across the United States is 1.3 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends taking preventative measures if your home's radon levels are between 2 and 4 pCi/L or higher.

The Wilderville, OR homeowners’ guide to radon detection and reduction services

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