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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Most of the time, you don’t need to seal brickwork and can save that money for another area of home improvement. But if your brick is cracking or you live in an area with a lot of excess moisture (either in terms of rain or freezes), sealing can extend the lifetime of your home. But, make sure you use a breathable sealant, like siloxane, to allow the moisture to evaporate on its own.

To stain brick, you should use a product specifically formulated for brick, concrete, or other masonry surfaces. These stains are designed to penetrate the porous surface of the brick and bond with it. This is different from paint, which sits on the surface and is prone to peeling, flaking, and trapping moisture that can cause damage. Water-based brick stains are often recommended because they are easy to apply, even for DIYers, and they allow the brick to breathe. Avoid using regular paint on brick, as it will not adhere properly and can lead to future maintenance problems.

Mortar and thinset both serve the same purpose—tile adhesion—but have different compositions and use-cases. Thinset is heatproof and presents a wide range of possibilities due to the added polymers. Mortar is typically used for bonding stones and brick. Thinset is rarely used outside, while mortar is rarely used inside.